Men’s Fashion Week: Paris and Milan Highlights
From loud primary colour schemes, latex, fetish gear and streetwear to muted earth tones, camo and impeccable tailoring, the offerings from the Paris and Milan Men’s Fashion Week have been varied, to say the least. Men’s Fashion Week as a concept has become more and more obsolete as brands push for inclusivity and post-gender collections, and thus designers are finding new ways to blur the lines and modernize their offerings. Menswear has never been more eclectic, and the 2018 runways have been a testament to that.
Kim Jones’ final collection for Louis Vuitton was aptly titled “Overview.” The designer delivered his trademark mix of luxurious tailoring and upscale streetwear mixed with aerial images of Kenya that formed the basis for most of the prints. Keeping in tune with the runway trends thus far in 2018 tees branded with “Louis” satisfied the logomania fever, and the cross shoulder satchels are sure to satisfy the luxe fanny pack craze that has dominated street-style as of late.
Jeremy Scott, never one for subtlety sent out his Moschino Fall 2018 collection with no exception. Exploring themes of kink and S&M with a nod to Madonna’s ‘Express Yourself’ models both male and female donned deconstructed dinner jackets, latex face masks and leather trenches.
Walter Van Beirendonck
Entitled “Pig” Walter Van Beirendonck’s Fall 2018 collection was similarly inspired by fetish and S&M. Leather trench coats, PVC gloves and vibrant jumpers were paired with chokers, mesh face coverings and outerwear with strategically placed cut out holes.
Rick Owens Fall 2018 Mens collection was titled “Sisyphus” and in his own words was an “angry collection.” Inspired by resistance and socio-political turmoil the collection had a sculptural and aggressively deconstructed quality. With an emphasis on military motifs including chains, industrial snaps and capes with their armholes sewn shut; an allusion to the growing constraints of artistic freedom and censorship in the modern age were abound.
Kris Van Assche sent out a (for the most part) decidedly body conscious and uber tailored collection focusing on two piece and double breasted suiting, made to fit, juxtaposed by 90’s rave inspired streetwear looks with high waisted baggy denim paired with tucked in polos and sneakers.
Comme Des Garcons
Rei Kawakubo’s Comme Des Garcons Homme Plus collection was a patchwork of ideas and influences. Terrazzo and comic print motifs accompanied asymmetric tailoring, off-kilter proportions, and garments shaped like hospital gowns accentuated with models donning oversized dinosaur headpieces in an exploration of childlike imagination and innocence.
Maison Margiela’s Fall 2018 collection was John Galliano’s first men’s offering for the house. The collection inspired by a “new glamour” for men incorporated a synergy of classic Margielian avant-garde influences and tailoring with Galliano’s affinity for fluidity and bias cuts. Anchored by a vibrant array of outerwear and suiting, the collection was distinctly of the moment. Transparent trenches, micro sunnies and puffer jackets lined with faux fur checked off some of the biggest runway trends of the past few seasons.
Demna Gvasalia’s Vetements Fall 2018 Men’s collection marks the brands return to the runway after a short hiatus. Titled “The Elephant In The Room,” the collection was a commentary on the blurred lines between artistic inspiration and plagiarization in the contemporary art world. The proposed influences in question? None other than Maison Margiela, undoubtedly. The collection shamelessly referenced Margiela down to the knock-off Tabi boots that a number of the models donned.
Off-White’s Fall 2018 men’s collection entitled “Business Casual” was a reinterpretation of 80’s and 90’s business-wear through a contemporary lens. Corporate-wear instilled with a relaxed and youthful spirit was combined with a decidedly millennial inspired uniform, “T-shirts, hoodies and jeans.”
Yohji Yomamato’s Mens Fall 2018 collection was quintessentially Yohji. Languid drapery, belted trenches, deconstructed suiting and generous volumes and layers gave way to shirt dresses and vibrant red draped tailoring.
Dries Van Noten
Dries Van Noten’s latest men’s offering was a hodgepodge of influences ranging from Western garb and military parkas to suits in traditional British checks, luxe crocheted cardigans and anoraks in swirling marble-esque swaths of colour. Somehow the vast range of influences combined seamlessly into a strikingly cohesive collection.
Prada’s Fall 2018 Mens collection was anchored around “Pocone” a water resistant nylon which came down the runway in a variety of forms: padded, un-quilted vests and jackets, shorts, long coats, loose pants, and skirts with every look being paired with bucket hats. Inspired by using “utilitarian or sporty things in a very elegant way” the collection was an Instagram streetwear daydream. Repurposed patterns from collections past were sliced and sutured together forming clashing shirt and skirt combos in line with the juxtaposition of prints that have been ruling the runways as of late.
Cody Rooney is a Glossi Mag contributor.
He is a photography aficionado, theatre school alumni, fashion enthusiast, avid Ariana Grande fan and lover of all things aesthetically pleasing.