Phoebe Philo Returns

It’s been six years since Phoebe Philo resigned from her role as creative director of Céline. Philo’s Céline era was nothing short of legendary, leaving the brand the most coveted womenswear label in the world, subverting the male gaze and creating clothing women actually wanted to wear. 

Céline S/S 2017

Following her departure, fans of the brand showed their allegiance through consistent consumption of Old Céline, both visually on Instagram and in resale. During Philo’s time at Céline, and prior to that, Chloé, she spearheaded elevated minimalism and garments that were practical yet daring. Philo understood how women wanted to dress, and allowed for practicality and comfort whilst experimenting with augmented silhouettes and statement details. 

This week, Philo dropped her highly anticipated debut namesake collection. 

Phoebe Philo A1 Studded Bottoms

Staying true to her style, Philo’s new work is built off of basics that are subverted by imaginative elements. The line is practical and adaptable, consisting mostly of tailored pieces that can be dressed up or down. Although more dialed back from her previous work at Céline, A1 does not fail to represent elevated minimalism, with pieces like the Zip Trousers – a high-waisted, wide-leg wool trouser featuring full-length zippers extending from waist to hem.

Phoebe Philo A1

The collection is balanced with wardrobe staples and imaginative statements. Stand out items include the range of hand-combed embroidered dresses, skirts, trousers, and coats, featuring plume-like feathered detailing. 

Phoebe Philo A1 Hand-Combed Embroidered Tailored Trousers

Various pieces from the collection are an ode to earlier Philo designs, such as the Square Toe Pumps and Square Toe Booties, which are reminiscent of the Glove Pumps and Glove Booties from her time at Céline. Contemporary trends are also embraced with cargo pants and bomber jackets. 

Along with the collection, the brand released a mission statement summarizing Philo’s intention with the line: “Our aim is to create a product that reflects permanence. The Phoebe Philo business model is designated to create a responsible balance between production and demand. For us, this means producing notably less than anticipated want.” 

Enjoyed this piece? Read our conversation with GORM, the local Toronto designer fusing sustainability with maximalism. 

Mila Radojevic is a Glossi Mag contributor.

Mila is an intern at Matte PR, and a content creator who loves fashion, art, and collaborating with others to bring inspiring visions to life.