New York Fashion Week Fall ‘22
For Fall ‘22, NYFW was all about the underdog. The absence of mainstay giants like Thom Browne, Tom Ford, Marc Jacobs, and Pyer Moss allowed for rising talent such as Puppets and Puppets or independent labels like Eckhaus Latta and Telfar — who closed New York Fashion Week— to take the main stage.
A common thread amongst these designers was their ode to the fashionable American. This appeared in Tory Burch’s collection that was inspired by what she saw on the streets of New York throughout the pandemic or Christian Siriano’s body of work that celebrated American bodies and the merging of America past and future. Alongside the concurrent “In America: A Lexicon of Fashion” at the Met’s Costume Institute, the week was a space of reflection on the shifting eras and American sartorial sense.
Here is a round-up of our favourite moments from NYFW, presented by Afterpay.
Telfar’s show, titled ‘PERFORMANCE’ was streamed live for a thirsty set of awaiting fans over Telfar TV. This collection was split in half; the first being fully realized athletic wear, the other was a study on Denim. Tracksuits, leggings and lycra tops were sent down the runway showing off designer Telfar Clemens’ ability to make even the ordinary extraordinary. Mini-skirts, skirts and perfectly slouchy jeans followed the athletic line. Finally, the crown jewel was, of course, the debuting of a round T logo bag shape that sold out in moments thanks to a massive QR Code being walked around the room.
With his collection entitled Victorian Matrix, Christian Siriano took guests to the Empire State Building’s concourse level. The designer got philosophical, pondering “what is real anymore?” with this collection. While we can’t be 100% certain of the answer to that question, what is certain is Siriano’s ability to put on a show. The collection featured various hues of blue and fused the Victorian age with a dystopian twist. Raw denim, sleek leather pieces and quilted hooded gowns also came down the runway, showing Siriano’s range.
Tory Burch’s latest effort was inspired by the ebb and flow of pandemic street style in New York City. The collection offered an inspired look into the creativity of New Yorkers’ everyday wear, mimicking looks that ranged from a sensible track jacket and high-waisted pant combination to jackets paired with a skirt and a belt for shape. With geometric designs and floral patterns, as well as rich takes on the primary colours, Tory Burch is stepping up the pandemic street style game.
Independent label Eckhaus Latta celebrated its ten-year anniversary on the runway last week. In a nod to the brand’s design practices of yesteryear, it focussed on elements from early collections, especially handwork. As a result, viewers were treated to hand-stitched jeans and blouses alongside body-flaunting slits that showed off everything from backs to breasts to thighs. As the brand enters the next decade it recently launched a collaboration with Moose Knuckles, a new shoe collection and a baby collection. It’s official: Eckhaus Latta is continuing its march toward the top.
This fall Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough wanted to unlock the possibilities of formal informality and did so by stepping outside their usual box. Their signature corseted silhouettes were rethought and free-from constraint, with garments constructed from machines that knit in concentric circles, creating seamless dimensional looks. Suiting was relaxed and layered, with looks completed with leather molded-toe ballet flats.
Puppets and Puppets
Puppets and Puppets Coven collection was designed to showcase wearability while maintaining the label’s much-loved dark whimsy. Designer Carly Mark certainly succeeded, incorporating textural and gothic elements like moiré dresses, nubbly knits, and prom-girl bustier tops with more streamlined fabrics and shapes. Midnight black, deep blues and moody reds delivered a sombre fall palette for everyone’s inner emo.
Transparency declaration: Afterpay Canada is a client of Matte PR, publisher of Glossi Mag.