RE\SET 004: Sid Neigum Presents SS19
Sid Neigum is one of Canada’s brightest and most promising fashion designers of the moment. Born in Alberta and based in Toronto, Neigum was educated at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York City and subsequently interned at Yigal Azrouël before starting his renowned eponymous womenswear line. Approaching fashion with the precision and reasoning of a mathematician, his aesthetic is defined by distinctly sculptural silhouettes influenced by modular origami techniques.
With an affinity for aesthetically pleasing asymmetry, Neigum’s collections offer a geometric sophisticated simplicity that render the designer in a league of brands that are both luxury and cutting edge. After presenting collections internationally at New York and London Fashion Week, Sid made a triumphant return to the fashion capital of Canada for his SS19 offering at Re\Set 004, opting for a refreshingly clean take on his signature aesthetic. “I wanted to go very clean, very fresh, normally my collections are quite heavy… a lot of black. I wanted to do a very clear departure of that and have very summer, spring, fresh vibes. The sort of feeling of walking into a paint store, it’s all white, a blank slate, and then there are just colour chips everywhere.”
Situated on level 2 of a parking garage in Yorkville; the show, accented by thumping techno beats and industrial grit was one of many juxtapositions. Flowing pleated chiffon skirts were contrasted by Van Herpen-esque structural dresses and drapey greco-roman capes. “The collection was meant to be really bold colours, fresh, light fabrics. The pleated chiffon, the sheer satins… pleating those, and the blue sheer fil coupes. Those are all new experiments for me. Usually, I’m doing heavier, bonded, structured fabrics.”
Still, there were the mainstays of the brand, silhouettes that Neigum considers integral to the line. “There is a signature longstanding piece incorporated into the collection, one that stores get over and over again…” Referring to an undulating structural piece which frames the shoulders and billows out in a translucent pleated chiffon. “Doing it in vivid colour this time was something new for me.” The collection while in fabric and palette, differed from previous offerings, was resolutely loyal to the brands affinity for geometry. “I am still very much sticking to the brand DNA in terms of pattern making, simplifying it to one pattern piece per garment that really holds structure. Now I’m finding when you do it in a light chiffon fabric, it becomes this soft, drapey, flowy piece. I stuck with the DNA from a construction standpoint but from a fabrication standpoint it was much lighter this time and much more colourful.”
Cody Rooney is a Glossi Mag contributor.
He is a photography aficionado, masters candidate, fashion enthusiast, avid Ariana Grande fan and lover of all things aesthetically pleasing.